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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2011 - 11:57 PM
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Not sure if this was asked but are your rads sealed in the airbox?
What kind of rads are you using?

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 21, 2011 - 12:58 AM
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Hi,

I have the special Griffon Quad Core (I think) with fans that were designed for the D&R cars. The air boxes are in place and I use foil backed insulation to surround the air boxes to shield it from engine bay heat.

The deck lid popped open while we were driving and the temp stayed at 100C.
When closed it went to 110C and sat there while cruising at 60 mph.
When we slowed down to turn around in a parking lot, it went toward 120C and it was a race back home.

I do not have the rear of the body open behind the grill.
The only opening is the triangular grill on the engine deck lid.

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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 21, 2011 - 03:53 PM
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I would definitly open up that area, it will only help. Do you have an oil cooler?

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 21, 2011 - 10:35 PM
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Hi,

No, but I have seriously considered it based on my VW BUG days.


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swittaOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 17, 2011 - 08:29 PM
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shot in the dark here but it sounds like it's running lean ? that would cause heat and backfiring .
if i remember you have an edelbrock carb ? i would switch it out for a holly or barry grant .
timing ? to advanced will run hot also .
have not talked to you forever i need to give you a call sometime .

Dave

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 19, 2011 - 02:06 AM
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Hi Guys:

OK, here's the latest improvements.
I have a Earl's 41910 Oil Cooler (43K BTU), Remote Filter location and Thermo-Tec Heat Sheild barriers to seal and shield the Air boxes.

new pics on Flickr site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63781347@N07/5806338275/in/photostream



The initial test drive at 74F ambiet was a very slow climb to 100C or 212F in 35 minutes.

Hiya Dave!
Timing should be right on, I found a Digital Light to do the flywheel.
Carb settings..... not my schtick but I have rebuilt it.
Are you reffering t0 the (2) main Idle jet screws?


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lambobuilderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 19, 2011 - 02:16 AM
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dB, flicker site is still private.

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 20, 2011 - 12:16 AM
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Hi:

When I uploaded the pics, I thought I checked the area that said view by all.
If there is more than that I don't know where to correct it.
I am not that familiar with that form.


With the wires and tubes covered in Thermo-Tec tubes, wrap on the headers and shields on the air box / firewalls, I could be a "poster child" for than company.Rolling Eyes



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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 20, 2011 - 06:02 AM
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dB

Check to make sure the air cant go around the rads, in other words make sure that they are sealed top, bottom and sides to the air box that way all of e air that goes into the vent goes thru the rads. Along the lines of what Switta said, fatten your mixture that will cool your cyl temps too

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 20, 2011 - 09:04 PM
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Hi,

The rads have at least a 1" gap on the inboard side and probably 2" on the outboard side. The top of the rad to main air intake is open.

This is a D&R Roadster and all the panels for airbox were installed.
Pics anyone?


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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 21, 2011 - 03:52 AM
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seal the rads to the air box, you want all of the air to go thru them not around

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