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Post subject: any experiences with failures, Porsche 915 trans  PostPosted: Oct 29, 2011 - 10:13 PM
KitCentral Fellow

Joined: Oct 09, 2011
Posts: 247

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any experiences with failures?

after going through all kinds of adventures with choosing a transmission
I think a Porsche 915 is going to be my ticket. (not inverted)

What can I do to make it stronger besides installing the following?
1) Billet Bearing Retainer Plate
2) Billet Side Plate
3) Billet Intermediate Plate

i know the side plates are important to prevent the pinion gear from being eaten under flex-load.
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Post subject:   PostPosted: Oct 30, 2011 - 04:50 AM
KitCentral Fellow

Joined: Jan 04, 2008
Posts: 299

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Renegade Hybrids or CMS can flip the ring gear for you. I would use the billet side plate for added strength. I have heard that the 915 can have shifting issues and I would look into what other gear sets might be available to make it more compatible with a V8.
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Post subject:   PostPosted: Oct 30, 2011 - 04:51 PM
KitCentral Fellow

Joined: Oct 09, 2011
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I found this article, I can't be sure from what I've found on the net, but it might be the stock Porsche 911 shift linkage that's more trouble than the actual transmission, but I could be wrong. The shift fork can get misaligned, but a billet version should fix that.

So for those who have trouble with type 915 transmissions and shifting

Given that the synchro’s are in good shape and they are adjusted right....the suckers are not hard to shift at all. Yes they baulk on forced shifts....but that is what they are supposed to do. If you shift smoothly and crisply there are no need to run it through other gears at stop lights etc. The key is proper shift linkage adjustment.

So for those who are having problems, here is the "trick"

1. Check the bushings in your shift linkage. This includes the 2 at the coupler between the rear seats, the one under the housing which is in the hoop retained by the 2 smaller bolts on the shift housing and the cup at the bottom of the shift rod. Make sure they are in good shape, they are cheap and easy to replace.

2. Make sure that if you have a later housing, that the longitudinal pivot pin is nicely snug, not too loose. You can tell if you have this housing as it will have a lock nut on the front (visible when you peel back the rubber boot around the shift lever. Consider upgrading to the later (post ‘7Cool housing and factory short shift kit if you haven’t already.

3. Make sure your clutch is adjusted right. It should engage about ¼ to 1/3 up from the floor board (IMHO) and have about 20mm of free play, measured by pulling the clutch pedal there is a spring which is pressing it towards the floor board, hence the bit of tension.

4. Follow the factory shifter adjustment procedure. It is as follows:

a) Take off the cover between the rear seats which exposes the shift coupler. Pull up the shifter boot, particularly so you can see the lower part of the shifter lever where it bends from "angled back" to more vertical.

b) Loosen the retaining bolt which pinches the shift rod on to the spline on the shift coupler. Let it be very loose.

c) WITH THE TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL, rotate the shift coupler clockwise when viewed towards the front of the car. You should be able to feel the coupler rub against the various shift stops as you rotate it back and forth. Rotate it to the furthest clockwise position, as seen when you are facing forward. Don’t pretend you are Tarzan and turn it with huge force....lightly is all that is necessary..

d) Keep your hand on it and hold it there. Don’t let it wiggle, if it does, turn it back to the furthest clockwise position.

e) Move the shift lever so that the more vertical part of the lever is vertical (ie 90 degrees to the level...sticking straight up so to speak). Move it so that it lightly touches the side of the shifter housing which is on the 1st/2nd gear side.....closest to the driver. Again, gently.

f) They should now be properly aligned.....lever closest to the driver with bottom part vertical, coupler clockwise in the neutral plane.

g) Carefully tighten the pinch bolt. Make sure it is quite tight.

h) Check things out. You must be able to engage reverse clash free (give the gear a little bit of time to stop after you stomp on the clutch), shifting should get to all the gears easily when driving.....things don’t work as smoothly when stopped and lastly, there must be a little bit of rotational play when 5th gear is selected. This is checked by shifting into 5th, and feeling whether you can wiggle the shift coupler with your hand. It should just click back and forth slightly...not much, but clearly discernible play.

i) Assuming all is well, put all the covers back. If it is not fervent suggestion is that you START OVER at b. ....I have never had any luck fiddling with the linkage.

Shift Linkage - Adjustment

1. Remove the cover plate on the tunnel, behind the front seats.

2. Place gearshift in neutral.

3. Loosen the shift rod clamp. Turn the shift rod (by grasping the coupler) to the right, as seen in the direction of driving.

4. Move gearshift lever to the left until it touches the stop, and move it fore-and-aft until the lower section is vertical when viewed from the side (the fore-and-aft adjustment can be modified to suit the driver, provided sufficient length of the shifter rod remains inside the clamp).

5. Lightly tighten the clamp.

6. Check if equally long travel is evident in gears 1-4, and that 5th and reverse can be easily engaged. Correct as necessary.

7. Tighten the clamp securely.

8. Shift into 5th gear, and check the shift rod for rotational play.

A definite (slight) amount of play must be evident.

This is also a good time to inspect the shift coupler bushings. Be aware that some fore-and-aft play in the coupler bushings is required.

credit source: Bob Tindel and
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