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RTOffline
Post subject: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 21, 2013 - 08:28 PM
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IMPORTANT! SEE NEW, EDITED SCHEMATIC IN ADDED POST.



(I also posted this on lamboclone.)

To all replica Lamborghini roadster builders…
I have worked long and hard to cover all aspects of operation for the replica Lamborghini ROADSTER power window and door lock wiring to provide the window “DROP” feature for opening and closing the door AND provide a “one-touch down window travel. The following schematic and explanation should be printed and understood before you attempt the wiring. Read the explanation and follow the circuits.
If anyone has an easier way to accomplish all of these features, please stand up.

RT

This schematic details wiring of the power windows and locks for the replica Lamborghini roadster with a “one-touch down” feature for window operation. This means when you want to open the door window you only have to touch the window switch enough to “latch” the circuit and the window will travel completely down and stop at full down position even when you release the window switch. To stop the down travel at any point in its travel, just touch the window “up” switch.
Roadster wiring for windows is different from the window wiring for the coupe because the roadster needs to have the window “drop” before the door can open. Operating the door handles controls the window “drop”. The inside door handles will unlock the door and drop the window. The outside handles will only drop the window if the door is unlocked. Limit switches control window positions and permits for window drop.
I recommend the builder devise an interlock to prevent the door from unlatching (opening) until the window has reached the bottom of the “drop” travel to prevent interference with the window and roof if the door is opened too quickly. This could be done with an electrical circuit but a mechanical interlock would be more positive.

1. Battery supplies fused 12 VDC to:
Window switches (2)
Relays: 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 13, and 14.
Door lock switches “J” and “K”
I.S. Door handle switches “N” and “S”
Door open switches “A” and “E”
2. Pressing window switch “Down” sends power to trip relay #3 (#6) which sends power through “Down limit switch at bottom” “R” (“T”), through relay #12 (#10) to window motor and also back through relay #2 (#5) which latches relay #3 (#6) to continue down travel of window. Diode “D 1” (“D 2”) prevents current flow back through window switch. (Note: The Lamborghini window switch terminal changes to a ground terminal after the switch is manually released when the ground terminal for the window switch icon light is connected to ground as shown. The window switch icon light gets power from the car’s dash gauge lighting circuit.)
3. Down limit switch at bottom “R” (“T”) breaks circuit when window is full down, unlatching relay #3 (#6) and stopping power through the window motor and latching circuit. It also prevents sending power to the motor by anyone manually pressing the window switch on purpose or by accident when the window is fully down (open).
4. Pressing window switch “Up” trips relay #2 (#5), breaking the one-touch down circuit and stops window down travel at any position in window travel.
5. Window down motor ground passes through “Up limit switch at top” “X” (“U”) and through relay #1 (#4) to ground.
6. Pressing window switch “Up” sends power to trip relay #1 (#4), which sends power through limit switch “X” (“U”) to window motor.
NOTE: Windows will NOT go up when the door is open. They may only be lowered with the door open. Relay #1 (#4) trigger terminal 85 passes through limit switch “M” (“L”) “Door fully closed switch”. This will prevent the automatic closing of the window in the drop position, or if an attempt is made to close the window with the door open, until the door has been closed. You do NOT want to have the window in the full up position when you close the door. Limit switch “M” (“L”) prevents this.
7. Window up motor ground passes through relay #12 (#10), through “Down limit switch at bottom” “R” (“T”), and through relay #3 (#6). Because relay #2 (#5) has been tripped by the window switch “Up”, the ground current does NOT pass through relay #2 (#5) and does NOT trip relay #3 (#6). Diode “D 4” (“D 3”) prevents window up motor ground from tripping relay #11 (#9).
8. The Unlock switch, or alarm-unlock ground signal, trip relay #7 and sends power to right and left lock drive to mechanically unlock the door latches. That will also mechanically close limit switches “J” and “K” sending power to O.S. door handles “P” and “Y”.
9. The “I. S. door handle switch” “N” (“S”) sends a power signal to right and left lock drives to mechanically unlock both door latches AND power to drop the window for their door only. (You want to have the inside door handle unlock the door if you need to get out. I recommend the handle(s) also have a mechanical connection to unlock the door in case of electrical malfunction.)
10. The unlock mechanical drive trips limit switches “J” and “K” sending power to “O. S. door handle switch” “P” (“Y”). Opening the door by way of the O.S. door handle will signal window drop. (If the door didn’t unlock, the window will not drop and the door will not open. Independent switches for each door will provide a safety measure if one fails. I recommend a mechanical, key operation for the door locks.)
11. When either I.S. or O.S. door handles signal for window “drop”, power is sent to trip relays #11 (#9) and #12 (#10) and through drop limit switch “W” (“V”) which latches the circuit until the window drop travel trips “W” (“V”) breaking the circuit.
12. Relay #12 (#10) having been tripped, prevents the power from going through limit switch “R” (“T”) and relays #2 (#4) and #3 (#5).
13. Diode “D 4” (“D 3”) prevents the ground from window “up” from back feeding the window down circuit. (The grounding circuit is still power searching for ground until it connects with a ground. It is why connecting devices in series cause all of them to run.)
14. When the door is opened the window will drop as described above. If the window has not been lowered beyond the “drop” travel with the door open, when the door is closed the window will go back up. If the window is below the “drop” position, the operator must use the window switch to close the window. There is NO one-touch window up until the window is in the “drop” range of travel (top 2”) where it will travel up by itself.
15. Drop limit switches “V” & “W” are tripped through the top 2” of window travel.
(This limits the drop distance to 2” when doors are in an “unlocked” mode and either inside or outside door handle is operated. If a different “drop” distance is used, be sure the window will clear the roof when the door is opened.)
Drop limit switches “D” & “H” are tripped through the top 2 ¼” of window travel.
(This keeps the circuit available for the “automatic window close” after the door has been opened. If the window has been lowered below that 2 ¼” after the door was opened, the window will not automatically close when the door has been closed. Keep this distance about ¼” longer than the distance set for limit switches “V” & “W”.)
16. When the door is opened limit switch “A” (“E”) connects to power energizing the window close circuit. The window has dropped and limit switch “B” (“F”) is un-tripped making a completed latch circuit for relay #13 (#14) sending continuous power to limit switch “C” (“G”). The drop limit switch “D” (“H”) has not been tripped yet at end of window drop travel and ready to send power to raise window.
17. When the door is closed, limit switch “C” (“G”) is tripped sending current through drop limit switch “D” (“H”) to the window “Up” circuit. Limit switch “A” (“E”) is also tripped, breaking the power connection to relay #13 (#14) trigger. (The relay will stay latched until limit switch “B” (“F”) is tripped at window top of travel.)

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Last edited by RT on Feb 06, 2014 - 05:34 PM; edited 2 times in total
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 22, 2013 - 10:09 PM
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Holy Diagrams RT! Finish the car dude, not the novel about it. Really impressive!

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G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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RTOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 22, 2013 - 11:08 PM
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LOL Thanks G.
I do this stuff at night, when I'm chillin'.


RT

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kjschroedOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 27, 2013 - 11:54 PM
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Any video of the door & window working? Ken

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RTOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 28, 2013 - 01:33 AM
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Ken…
I have a coupe. I made mine one-touch-down and it works fine. I don't need the wiring required for the roadster that includes the "drop" and window close when you close the door. I was intrigued by the difficulty of wiring the roadster and thought I would give it a try. Believe me, it was not easy. I spent many nights contemplating all the demands this car takes to operate like a factory build. Read through the printed text and follow the circuits. I think you will find everything works as it should.
So, there is no video. There is no build, yet. You can be the first! Let us see it in action.

RT

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FAmonmouthOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 28, 2013 - 09:02 PM
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Or you could just buy the window module from dei
 
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RTOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 29, 2013 - 04:07 AM
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FAmomouth…
Thanks for standing up like I asked in my post but don't leave us hanging!
What is this?
What does it do?
Where do you get it?
How much does it cost?
How does it work?
What was it made for?
Can it do all the things I made this schematic do?

Never mind, I looked them up online.
This unit costs about $150.00. It offers one-touch up and down window control and a "vent" mode.
The one-touch down feature is OK but the one-touch up is a safety hazard. (You would not want anything or anyone in the path of a closing window that won't stop.)
The "Vent" feature works with a 1.5 second signal from your remote (or manual, if you bypass their unit) switch. So if you used your door handles to signal their module, you have to wait the 1.5 seconds before the window drops and you can open the door. You would definitely have to make a mechanical interlock to prevent the door from opening until the window has dropped or you will have a broken window.
That's it!
It is meant to connect to existing wiring.
It does not automatically close your window after you open then close your door.
It will allow you to close the window before you close the door resulting in a broken window.


RT

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faaqassoOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Nov 30, 2013 - 11:19 PM
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Man I'm glad mines a coupe

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RTOffline
Post subject: RE: Lock and window one-touch down wiring schematic  PostPosted: Jan 11, 2014 - 09:03 PM
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IMPORTANT ! ! !
Hey guys, I was hoping somebody would catch any errors in that schematic but it looks like I did first!
The diodes (all four) shown in the schematic are drawn in the wrong direction. The bar drawn on the diode should be on the opposite end of the diode. That bar represents the end of the diode that BLOCKS current flow. Current can not flow through the diode if it comes from that direction. Obviously the current must flow from the window switch out to the relays and, as shown, that wouldn't happen.
Sorry about the error.
Below is an updated version showing the diodes correctly.
RT


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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 28, 2017 - 06:15 PM
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Ron, let me first say that this wiring diagram is a work of art. I can't imagine how much effort must have gone into making this and I, for one, thank you for your willingness to share. My question is, did you put this to work in your car? I have been studying this for a couple of days and while I think I understand most of it, there seems to be a lot of redundant switches (which take up space that is at a premium on these cars). For instance, if I'm reading this correctly, there are two switches (B and X) that are both designed to trigger when the window reaches the top of its travel (the same for switches F and U on the other window). I do see that they perform two different functions however. There also appears to be two switches per side to indicate when the door is fully closed (C and M on one side, G and L on the other) and one to indicate when the door is open (A on one side and E on the other). This would mean that each door would need four switches mounted to it. Three for the window operation and one for the inside (dome) lights. Unless one or more of the switches could be employed for double duty. So, while I marvel at your theoretical abilities I'm wondering if this was ever put to practical use. Please don't misunderstand. I'm not being critical. I wish I had your knowledge and ability. I'm just wondering if you managed to make this work and if so, did you make any changes along the way to simplify it. Thanks again Ron for all the knowledge you've shared with us as you progressed on your build. It has been an inspiration to us all.
 
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RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 28, 2017 - 11:21 PM
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daywilm...
It has been a long while since I made that in an attempt to help others.
My build is a coupe. I didn't need that wiring. I don't know of any who did use it but I was trying to help someone else through it. It ended up adding more features and got to be way too much, so I threw in the towel.
True, there is a redundancy of switches. They were there to switch power to different locations. You might be able to change those to a single switch connecting ground to those locations. That would not power a location you don't want to power. That way you could energize a location that has constant power to it or signal a relay to power something else, thereby isolating those circuits from each other but using a single switch to signal both.
I would have to go way back and start over figuring it all over again. And I don't have that drawing on my new computer so I would have to do it over.
The concept was correct, the execution was flawed.
If you really need this, I will look into it.

RT

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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 01, 2017 - 04:12 PM
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RT - Don't worry about it. I was just wondering if it had evolved any since your original diagram. If I decide to try and make it work I'll post my results here for everyone to see. Once again, I appreciate all the work you put into this and admire your willingness to share with the rest of us.
 
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