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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 05, 2017 - 06:21 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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Jim, thanks for your response. I first tested the main relays and with the key in the "Run" position my test light glows on all wires of both main relays except for the ground wires (pin 4, terminal 85) on both. The Fuel Pump Relays are different. They are transistor relays instead of coil-type relays. With the ignition in the "Run" position, my test light only glows on pins 1,5 & 7. But with the engine running, my test light glows on all wires except pins 4 & 6 (both relays). I used a Noid light and it flashed properly on cylinders 7-12 but did not flash at all on cylinders 1-6. I then took my test light and, with the engine running, I tested both terminals on the injector connectors for cylinders 1-6 and the test light glowed on BOTH pins. I was expecting it to only glow on the + pin but not the - pin. Does this mean I have a bad DME? At one point, a couple of weeks ago, I swapped DME's but it didn't make any difference. I thought this told me that the DME was OK. I'm stumped.
 
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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 05, 2017 - 08:08 PM
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OK, a quick correction to my previous post. I'm not sure what happened the first time I checked but upon checking again, with my engine running I am getting power to terminal 2 (positive terminal) of my injector connectors on cylinders 1-6 (not both sides of the terminals as I stated above). But the Noid light doesn't blink on any of those cylinders. I took the connector from DMEII (7-12 cylinders) which seems to be working fine and put it on DMEI thinking that if the DMEI was bad then the engine wouldn't start. But it did start and ran the same so I think my DME's are OK. But something is keeping the negative pulse from happening on 1-6.
 
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lambo1Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 07, 2017 - 03:22 AM
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Hi have you checked the pulse winding on the spark leads i cant remember what plugs its on ther is one per bank of 6 its called cylinder identification sensor in the pdf i posted earlier, its common for them to fail, it tells the dme there is spark, a problem i had with mine was lots of dry joints on the three dme and eml where the large connectors plug on the solder had crystallised and half the pins were not connected i ended up removing all three boxes and stripping them down, using i solder sucker i removed all the old solder and redid them at least then it ran on 12 you only had to give any of the computers a tap and it would go back to 6cyl. what year is your donor and model, mine is an 1988 e32 and i have workshop electrical for it. it would appear pin 8 and 31 receives the pulse on the dmls i suspect if that pilse does not get back to the dml then it thinks there is no spark so shuts off the injectors.
 
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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 07, 2017 - 02:45 PM
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
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My donor is a 1990 750. After pulling the engine I cleaned it all up, replaced all external gaskets/seals, rebuilt the starter, etc. In the process I put on all new distributor caps, rotors and plug wires. I suppose it's possible that the cylinder identification sensor isn't working (I've gotten bad parts before) but I'm thinking that is unlikely. The bad solder joints is definitely a possibility. I'll check that out. Thanks.
 
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daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 24, 2017 - 03:01 PM
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Just to wrap this up, I thought I'd let everyone know how this turned out. After 5 weeks at a mechanics shop who knows BMW inside and out and an expensive bill, they finally determined that I had inadvertently switched the crank sensor and cylinder ID sensor connectors on the passenger side of the engine. I'm not sure how I managed that. When dismantling the engine to replace gaskets/seals, I took pictures, made drawings, took notes and labeled everything as I took it off but somehow managed to mislabel the sensor connectors on the the 1-6 cylinder bank. After extensive testing and wire tracing they finally found the problem and switched the connectors. The engine fired right up and runs like a top. The lesson here is that you can't be too careful when dealing with wires, vacuum hoses, etc. Double-check everything and make sure it is right before disconnecting! I learned the hard way.
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 25, 2017 - 12:53 AM
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daywilm wrote:
Just to wrap this up, I thought I'd let everyone know how this turned out. After 5 weeks at a mechanics shop who knows BMW inside and out and an expensive bill, they finally determined that I had inadvertently switched the crank sensor and cylinder ID sensor connectors on the passenger side of the engine. I'm not sure how I managed that. When dismantling the engine to replace gaskets/seals, I took pictures, made drawings, took notes and labeled everything as I took it off but somehow managed to mislabel the sensor connectors on the the 1-6 cylinder bank. After extensive testing and wire tracing they finally found the problem and switched the connectors. The engine fired right up and runs like a top. The lesson here is that you can't be too careful when dealing with wires, vacuum hoses, etc. Double-check everything and make sure it is right before disconnecting! I learned the hard way.


I have not been on here in a while. Glad to hear it worked out. Get your car finished now!! Smile

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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 25, 2017 - 06:16 PM
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CONGRATS MAN!!!!!

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lambo1Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 27, 2017 - 11:13 PM
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Good news they found it, you really would think that bmw would have used a different type of connector so that could not happen, i know when i pulled mine off once i wrote on them with twink before removal, but i never noticed the connectors were the same good find
 
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