Page Loading... please wait!


This message not going away?
Ensure Javascript is on and click the box
Unregistered? Register for a user account. Home :: Downloads :: Submit News :: Reviews :: FAQ   

Online

There are 68 unlogged users and 0 registered users online.

You can log-in or register for a user account here.

Languages

Preferred language:



Post new topic   Reply to topic
View previous topic Printable version Log in to check your private messages View next topic
Author Message
marsonOffline
Post subject: V-Drive Setup  PostPosted: Dec 23, 2011 - 01:39 PM
Junior Member


Joined: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 13

Status: Offline
Hey guys, how is it going?

I will start my build in January, 2012!

I've decided to use a Toyota Supra Powertrain (2JZ-GTE + 6speed getrag trans) with a V-drive setup.

The engine will be mounted with the trans pointing to the front of the car, and a V-drive will be used to get a RWD car. I will also use the toyota supra differential.

I saw the Kevkev building diarie and read his threads / comments in this forum.

At this time the question is, which v-drive should I choose to my project.

Which is the indicated ratio? 1:1 ?

The supra engine will be tunned to reach something about 700-850hp... lots of torque! the V-drive must strong! I think that a casale V-drive can handle it, there are some race boats pushing more than 900hp using a casale v-drive.

I also found these guys : http://www.menkensvdrives.com/
Seems that they have some good stuff !

So anyone can help me to choose the right V-Drive setup?

Many thanks and best regards,

Marson


Merry xmas for everybody!!!!!
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
wire2Offline
Post subject: RE: V-Drive Setup  PostPosted: Dec 24, 2011 - 02:04 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 15, 2005
Posts: 307
Location: Milton, ON, Canada
Status: Offline
Some Menkens V drives have straight cut gears like this;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Drive-Boat-Hall-Craft-V-Drive-Menkins-/110762493121?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c9f584c1
They will be quite noisy. Look for bevel cut gears. I believe Kevkev suggested 6°, 1:1.
Here's a set of bevel;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Casale-Split-Case-Gears-1-12-12-LH-Drive-V-Drive-Boat-/160629190873?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item25663ef0d9
I am using 1.3:1 with a T56 and a 3.05 Viper diff. Should give me lots of low end power and still good cruising rpm with 6th gear being .5:1
 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website  
Reply with quote Back to top
beyondcustomOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 24, 2011 - 03:08 AM
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Posts: 108
Location: Western Australia Perth
Status: Offline
we use bevel cut is the only way to go, here is link to one of the 5 builds we are using the set up on with also the getrag

http://kitcarforums.net/smf/index.php?topic=193.0

Leon
 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website  
Reply with quote Back to top
marsonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 26, 2011 - 11:27 AM
Junior Member


Joined: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 13

Status: Offline
So the bevel cut gears will have a lower noise level, right?

6º or 12º ?

Which of the v-drives will offer lower maintenance costs?

I've saw that some v-drives have a shifter, what is the shifter function? Isn't the v-drive a direct-drive device?

How about the cooling for the v-drive?

Thx in advance,

Marson
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 27, 2011 - 03:24 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 15, 2005
Posts: 307
Location: Milton, ON, Canada
Status: Offline
Yes, bevel cut means constant mesh, so much less noise, vibration.
6° seems adequate to me, but it's up to individual design.
The "shifter" is a set of in-out dogs so you can run the engine in a drag boat while sitting still, no clutch.
Drag boats do a complete run in 60 seconds or less so heat is not an issue. Typically the case is finned aluminum, but I plan to add tubing to an external cooling rad.
 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website  
Reply with quote Back to top
marsonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 27, 2011 - 12:13 PM
Junior Member


Joined: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 13

Status: Offline
Thx for the infos!

V-Drives are a complete new thing to me, I don't have any knowledge about it.

I ask a price quotation to RexMarine, for a Casale V-Drive, 1:1 ratio, 6º or 8º, bevel cut gears...

As soon as I get the price I will inform you guys.


With best regards,

Marson
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
marsonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 28, 2011 - 12:06 PM
Junior Member


Joined: Sep 19, 2008
Posts: 13

Status: Offline
Hey guys, how is it going?

Here is what Mike of RexMarine reply to my quotation.


Quote:
Hello Lucas,

New vdrives run in the 2800-4000.00 range depending on options. 8 degree may be available, I would have to check. I know 8 degree parts were running low a month ago when I inquired on one. Normally they come with a simple in and out of gear shift dog assembly. If you want a reversing unit that adds a lot of cost. They have input and output shafts of different sizes that accept flanges that bolt to standard Spicer 1350 drivelines. I would recommend large shaft sizes for your horsepower. If we nail down some of these options a little closer I can quote you on the box you will need.

Thanks, Mike @ Rex Marine



I didn't understand what he mean when he told "If you want a reversing unit that adds a lot of cost. They have input and output shafts of different sizes that accept flanges that bolt to standard Spicer 1350 drivelines."

Isn't a V-Drive a reversing unit? Ex: Input shaft running clockwise and the output shaft running counter clockwise ?

By the way, I will be able to use the reverse when I use a V-Drive?

Regards,

Marson[/quote]
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
EAMartinOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 28, 2011 - 04:09 PM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Jan 04, 2008
Posts: 298

Status: Offline
I suspect that what he is referring to is being able to reverse the rotation of the output shaft. In other words having a shift mechanism that would allow you to have the output rotate either clockwise or counter-clockwise. This would require extra gears and therefore the added cost. You shouldn't need to be able to reverse the V-drive as you will have reverse in your transmission.
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 28, 2011 - 04:10 PM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 15, 2005
Posts: 307
Location: Milton, ON, Canada
Status: Offline
A reversing V drive has a 3rd gear and a fwd/rev mechanism. It's so you can back up in a boat, but redundant in a car b/c you will have a tranny ahead of it.
Yes, a V drive will work fine when you shift the tranny into reverse.
 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website  
Reply with quote Back to top
daywilmOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 29, 2011 - 09:33 PM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Nov 22, 2009
Posts: 279
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Status: Offline
Just my 2 cents worth. I'm planning on using a Casale v-drive as well.

You will want a direct drive unit because you really don't need/want the in/out function. It just takes up precious space and since you have a clutch and transmission ahead of it the in/out function has no purpose. The direct drive units are also the least expensive since they have no "bells and whistles", but they are perfect for our application.

Direct drive Casale v-drives normally come in a 10 or 12 degree. KevKev used a 12 degree and mounted the v-drive in a "cocked" position (not straight up and down but at an angle) in order to allow the drive shaft to clear the engine. He had an LS1 and found this necessary to make it work. If you mount the v-drive in a straight verticle position the 12 degree angle would probably be excessive and you'd want the smallest angle offered since it puts the output shaft pointing downward.

I'm still researching this, but this is what I "think" I know so far.
 
 View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail  
Reply with quote Back to top
RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 30, 2011 - 12:16 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 04, 2004
Posts: 1956
Location: Buckingham, PA, USA
Status: Offline
Don't feel that you have to mount the V drive directly in front of the transmission with a short connector. They make some noise and take space as well as creating some heat so, mount it forward, out of the tunnel if possible and away from your feet with a short drive shaft. This will allow for cooling air and the ability to use sound deadening around the drive. Kevkev used a two-piece driveshaft from the V drive to the rear differential. That way it will allow re-angling of the drive as you pass the engine. His driveshaft had a center bearing a double U-joint at the V drive connection that helped eliminate driveshaft vibrations.



Those pictures and a few more at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49982981@N00/2502600704/in/photostream/

RT

_________________
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49982981@N00/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rontinari
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
bartmanOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 31, 2011 - 03:11 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Jun 21, 2005
Posts: 220

Status: Offline
I built a chassis with a mocked up drivetrain using a divorced transfer case instead of a v-drive. Cheaper, quieter solution. But just my opinion of course. A divorced transfercase is a 4x4 transfer case but not mated directly to the transmission. Left in 4 wheel high and nothing hooked to the rear output shaft, serves the same function as the v-drive.
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 31, 2011 - 04:17 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 04, 2004
Posts: 1956
Location: Buckingham, PA, USA
Status: Offline
Bartman,
Good solution.
What unit did you use?
How did you make the connections between the transmission, transfer case, and rear differential?
Any pictures?

RT

_________________
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49982981@N00/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rontinari
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 31, 2011 - 07:04 AM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 15, 2005
Posts: 307
Location: Milton, ON, Canada
Status: Offline
bartman wrote:
..... A divorced transfercase is a 4x4 transfer case but not mated directly to the transmission. Left in 4 wheel high and nothing hooked to the rear output shaft, serves the same function as the v-drive.


A typical transfer case uses a chain on 2 sprockets, so a ccw input will have a ccw output, which is the wrong way. Are you going to flip the diff to correct it?
 
 View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website  
Reply with quote Back to top
RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 31, 2011 - 03:00 PM
KitCentral Fellow


Joined: Feb 04, 2004
Posts: 1956
Location: Buckingham, PA, USA
Status: Offline
A typical 4wd has the transfer case feeding front and rear differentials. The rear differential input faces forward and the front differential input faces rearward. With the driveshaft turning the same direction the front differential has to make those wheels run "backwards" to drive forwards. Those differentials are offset to clear the engine also. So, if you turn the entire drive train around, put the front differential at the rear. The offset should work out for you and the differential will turn the correct way.
Of course I'm talking about a four wheel drive that has an independent front suspension. If you use a 250/2500 series or larger, the differential and CV joints will be plenty strong enough for big power. You might even be able to use the truck axles even if you have to modify them.
If you use this system, I would make some positive mechanical linkage that keeps the box engaged. I would not rely on the shift detent in the box to keep it engaged. If it ever popped out of gear, you would not be able to easily put it back.

RT

_________________
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49982981@N00/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rontinari
 
 View user's profile Send private message  
Reply with quote Back to top
Display posts from previous:     
Jump to:  
All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Post new topic   Reply to topic
View previous topic Printable version Log in to check your private messages View next topic
Powered by PNphpBB2 © 2003-2006 The PNphpBB Group
Credits
 
Page created in 3.9835159778595 seconds.