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gwaderOffline
17 Post subject: 3800 fire up check list  PostPosted: Jun 28, 2006 - 01:47 PM
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Joined: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 3843
Location: Culver City,CA
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I want to fire this baby up some time this month. Of course I don't know exactly what I'm doing. I'm going to get it as close as I can. So here goes.

Did I miss anything?

Thanks
Greg

1. Engine
2. Oil change
3. Computer
4. Wiring harness/ only to hook up steering column turnkey, motor, battery,starter,computer
5. Fuel tank
6. Fuel tank straps
7. Fuel lines
8. Fuel pump
9. Fuel filter
10. EVAP Canister
11. Exhaust pipes to muffer and out of muffler
12. Muffler
13. Rad hoses to and from engine.
14. Rad blowoff lines
15. Rad blow offbox with cap
16. Temp gauge in the rad line
17. Battery
18. Battery mount
19. Battery cables to chassis and starter.
20. Power steering hard line and rubber line.
21. Luck


Last edited by gwader on May 05, 2008 - 06:39 PM; edited 1 time in total
 
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RUNDLCOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 28, 2006 - 03:55 PM
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Don't forget the gas!!! LOL LOL LOL. you'll need that Greg. Very Happy Good Luck getting her started!! I was like a kid in a candy store when mine fired off. It has been fun driving around the neighborhood until our resident chp guy saw me coming down the street!! Talk about a fast turnaround back to the garage!!

RUNDLC
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 29, 2006 - 01:37 AM
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Hey Greg,
Wire your alternator large cable directly to the battery cable anywhere....starter or battery is fine.
The "L" terminal of the alternator connector is the only one you need. Connect it to the NEGATIVE side of the idiot light bulb. The POS side of that bulb will be energized only when the key is in the run position.
The circuit will be; fuse panel live in run mode> bulb in> bulb out> alternator 'L'. Do not connect to ground anywhere.

Make sure your power steering has fluid (dexron III) and is connected everywhere.

If you do not have freon in the AC system, make sure the AC temperature control is disconnected so the clutch will not engage. Just disconnect the binary/trinary switch on the receiver dryer.

Cycle the key several times in order to send enough fuel to the fuel rail. Check it closely for fuel leaks.
The 'key on' sends about a 5 second pulse to the fuel pump and that is all it will ever see. The voltage supply is through the oil pressure switch. The fuel pump will start to run when the oil pressure is over 10 PSI.

I only have one problem with the above list and that is the temperature switch in the rad line. It will probably only read the correct temperature when the thermostat is open.

Good Luck and Crank Away.

Jim

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 29, 2006 - 03:17 PM
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Thanks dude!!

Greg

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Later
G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 15, 2006 - 04:08 PM
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Joined: May 29, 2004
Posts: 1273
Location: Milton, WI.
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Hi Greg:

SUPER!!

Get a video of when you fire it up.

Check all the bolt torques holding:
- Engine to the frame bolts
- Accessories to the Engine (A/C, Alt, P/S, Emissions)
- Pulleys
- Valve Cover bolts


I want to see video.................


dB
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 18, 2006 - 08:34 PM
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I got the engine harness and NAERC headers. I'll post pics of the other side and of the harness.

Later

greg



 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 19, 2006 - 04:49 PM
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Left side ok!



When I pulled the stock header this thing attached to it. Anyone know what it is? The NAERC header doesn't have anything for this to attach back too.

Later

Greg



 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 19, 2006 - 10:16 PM
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I talked to Randy at NAERC and I can just remove the whole senor. I just need to plug the intake hole.

Greg

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G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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thewirewizzOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2006 - 03:53 AM
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that is the egr valve.it may cause a check engine light if you remove it depending on what ecm youn use.
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2006 - 04:42 PM
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Thanks. I think Randy said something about the computer bypasses it. I think................

Greg

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G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2006 - 08:49 PM
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Location: Culver City,CA
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 21, 2006 - 10:31 PM
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Location: Culver City,CA
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Intake CoverMod

Later

Greg




 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 22, 2006 - 01:31 AM
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Hey Greg, the NAERC wire harness does not employ the EGR so blocking it off is fine unless you need to do an EMISSION test in your part of the country.
Do I see a mounting port for the O2 sensor on those headers? I can not see one in the pictures!
It needs to install really close to at least three of the exhaust ports.
You will need to mount the threaded bung as close as you can to the rear flange of the headers. I suppose that the exhaust pipe will be fine on one side but if you go further than that or mount it in a crossover pipe it might be too cold to operate properly. The O2 sensor needs to be as hot as possible in the exhaust.

BTW the block off looks good. Get rid of the rest of the EGR system. It will make is easier to install the engine cover kit too.

Jim

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gwaderOffline
Post subject: Engine wiring  PostPosted: Aug 06, 2006 - 03:53 AM
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I'm going to need to extend the wires. I think these are the connector I'm suppost to use. Then I use a crimper to smash the wires together. Then use a heatgun to shrink the heat shrink tubing.

Does this sound right?

Thanks

Greg

 
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lambo1canadaOffline
Post subject: RE: Engine wiring  PostPosted: Aug 06, 2006 - 01:32 PM
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Greg. Jim is installing a 3.8 S/C into my car...one of the many words of advice he told me is to make sure you have spark plug wire boot insulators or you will melt them

http://cableorganizer.com/insultherm-spark/
 
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