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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 17, 2007 - 06:07 AM
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This is repost info from Jdinner..

Greg

The series II 3800 does not needs those wires. The series III 3800 does use it.
The BMW uses a fly-by-wire electronic gas pedal, meaning there is no throttle linkage or cable.
You most likely do not need those 8 wires if you are running a pre 2005 engine.

The reason for the three 10 gauge wires for main power is this;
1) wire to feed power to the key switch and fuse panel.
2) wire for half of the relays (heater fan)
3) wire the other half of relays (headlights)
All three wires have 30 amp circuit breakers at the source (battery) to protect against fire and overloading of the circuit. If you are not using a fusible link or circuit breakers the potential for fire is very high if a wire wears through and grounds out.

Coil pos;
This wire is labelled for non-electronic ignition. You will need to connect it to the 'hot ignition during crank' circuit of your engine. The computer wire needs to be live in crank mode so it will start. Some of the ignition circuits turn off during crank. Some are just accessory circuits.
If you have a computer pre-1996 that has a red, white and blue connector on it you should connect it to white connector #9 top row of pins on the computer.

Hope that helps;
Jim
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 27, 2007 - 07:56 PM
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Well I got the fuel pump tested. No leaks in the lines! So now it just a matter of getting power to the computer and hooking up a switch.

Later

Greg

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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Dec 27, 2007 - 11:48 PM
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Start the thing already!!!!

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 07, 2008 - 07:13 PM
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Throttle linkage. Cable or hard line and tierod ends?

Thanks

greg

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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 07, 2008 - 09:23 PM
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GOOD OBSERVATION!!!!!
You NEED to make a linkage system at the throttle that allows the cable to never come near exhaust heat.
Use the cross bar in the chassis (just under the throttle body) to act as a base. Run ball joints and solid links to the front of the motor and make your cable connection there. I replace three throttle cables due to melt down.
I ended up with a throttle cable that was header wrapped, then covered with heater hose then header wrapped again in order to make it work.

Jim

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 10, 2008 - 07:10 AM
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reposted

You only need one 12 volt + constant to the key switch in the column.

Pink wire - coil - connect to 12 volt + 'hot during crank' on your engine harness.

Yellow engine start SHOULD run through the clutch pedal switch to prevent accidental starts in gear.
It can go directly to the the starter solenoid (small connector on the starter motor) if you feel lucky about always leaving the car in neutral.

The accessory wire will power a circuit in the fuse panel that controls things like the radio. Items that you want turned on without the engine running. I plan on only doing this for the radio.

Your engine wire harness has a 'Always Hot' (constant 12V+) wire and a 'Hot During Crank' wire. The fuel pump powered up using the oil pressure switch and a pulse circuit from the computer, it is self contained in the computer and harness, you do not need to worry about it other than connecting the fuel pump wires to the pump.

Jim

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 10, 2008 - 07:14 AM
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ok a few questions. I'm confused as to where this ECU gets power.

Greg





 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 10, 2008 - 10:43 AM
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The picture with bottom of the fuse panel. Nothing connects there.
If we look at the fuse block as this in the picture
Top Row 1 2 3 4
Bottom Row 5 6 7 8 (your arrows are pointing to 5 and 6)
7 - (red or orange) should have a label "constant 12V+" or "run- hot during crank"
7 is jumped internally to supply power to 5 and 6.
8 is labelled "constant 12V+" or "run- hot during crank"
So, in other words the two wires in the bottom right corner of the picture above are connected to the chassis and they supply the entire engine with everything including the fuel pump supply power.

The wire in the fuel pump relay picture should be labeled fuel pump and I think it is the positve side of the pump.

Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is a switch on automatic transmission cars to only allow the starter to work in park or neutral. On a manual car we use a clutch pedal switch. That wire can be used for that.
So in text form it will look like this;
Key switch start circuit >>> pedal switch in >>> pedal switch out >>>> starter solenoid.

Jim

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wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 11, 2008 - 05:34 AM
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I had a '95 Stealth that had a couple of nice features you may want to consider; when the car was stopped and the key turned off, there was a 30 second delay during which the power windows could still be operated. And the radio continued to play with the key removed, until the door was opened .
Convenient.
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 11, 2008 - 06:30 PM
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That would be cool.

I found the "Always Hot","Hot During Crank". They hidden in the wire loom. Oops!

So both "Neutral Safety Switch" and the yellow engine start wire should run to the "clutch pedal switch"?

Greg



Man I wish I had a laptop to take to the garage!
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 15, 2008 - 05:24 AM
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Sad Sad Sad Sad Ok this is what I've hooked up to start the engine. My starter is having a REALLY hard time turning the motor over. If I take out the spark plugs, the starter motor will spin the engine with no problem, because there is not compression.

I was able to get one "ok" crank when the battery was at 13.40 amps. It kinda stayed started when I let go of the starter button and the engine was still trying to fire. I guess because of the hot during crank? then I quickly pulled the ecu wire off the battery.

After trying to crank ,the battery just looses power and won't turn the engine. I'm using a Optimum battery I bought 1 month ago. I keep it on a battery tender to recharge over night.

I also tried to use one of my running cars to start the motor, but no luck. I checked the coil pack and follow each wire to it's correct cylinder. I also put a rachet 'n' socket on the crank bolt to turn the motor by hand. No problem by hand. Evil or Very Mad Evil or Very Mad

Any ideas?

Greg



 
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wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 15, 2008 - 06:12 AM
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It sounds like you have a resistance joint somewhere.
Test for voltage at the starter to engine block during crank, should be close to 12v.
You can also put the voltmeter from starter + to battery +, it should be no more than a fraction of a volt. Check for a heated wire connection right after cranking.
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 15, 2008 - 08:47 PM
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This morning I tested the battery at 13.44 volt after recharging. Next I tested the power at the starter,13.44 volt. Then I connected the ECU and I still got 13.44. After that I connected the fuel pump, which started pumping. It used about 1 amp per second as I watched the amps drop to reduce the over all battery power to 12.56 volts.

I then tried to start it with just the ECU powered. While its trying to start I tested the power at the starter and it dropped down to 3 volts and didn't turn the engine. Its making a buzzzzzzzzzzzzing sound while trying to turn the motor.

Now what?

Thanks

Greg

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jtm311Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 16, 2008 - 12:26 AM
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Greg it still sounds like the battery, Check your volts during the cranking of the starter. That buzzzzzzing means not enough power in the battery or a bad ground.

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MIKEBAUEROffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 16, 2008 - 01:43 AM
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I agree, it sounds like the battery,With my experience... volts will typically drop to 10.9- 10.0 any lower than that and there is a problem even if it is a slight one. The perfect number would be 11.3 volts for the average system (just with my experience greg)

Are you sure about the condition of the engine? has the timing been moved?
JTM mentioned the ground, check to see if it is hot! if it is... it is not adequate. hope this helps ,

mike b
 
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