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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 16, 2008 - 04:46 AM
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I think you have a dud for a battery, perhaps try one from a working car.
Things to check;
1) If you remove an ignition wire from the coil set you should see sparks jumping all around the terminal on the coil.
2) Run a live wire to the fuel pump + for about 15 to 20 seconds, this will purge any air from the fuel rail.

3) Feel all the battery cables, cable connections and starter motor immediately after cranking, if anything is too hot to touch suspect a problem there.

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 16, 2008 - 06:12 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys. I think this may have been due to my dumba$$. Well.... I'm learning as I go. Rolling Eyes I was using a set of jumper cables to connect the 2 gauge wire to the positive battery post, as a temp connection. Same thing for the negative. Bad idea!!! So I went down and bought proper connectors to the battery posts.

I then charged the battery with a real battery charger, not my motorcycle battery tender. Then with the charger set to use on crank it fired up. It took a few seconds to get going, but it started and ran for about 3 seconds. It sounded abit rough. I then did it a second time with the charger removed. I cranked it at 9:50pm, so I'm stopping for the night. More info to come. I'll up load a video in the morning


Later

Greg Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing
 
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jtm311Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 16, 2008 - 12:25 PM
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Good to hear Greg, My dad always told me when we were kids buzzing means battery Smile

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 18, 2008 - 07:27 AM
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Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzr9jLSW24A
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 18, 2008 - 11:32 AM
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AWESOME! One step closer

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RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 18, 2008 - 01:20 PM
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The first time is always memorable. LOL
Way to go!

RT

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swittaOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 18, 2008 - 10:25 PM
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It's ALIVE !!! alright way to go man ! so when is the test drive Very Happy

Dave
 
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jtm311Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 18, 2008 - 11:33 PM
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Way to go Greg!!!

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 12:51 AM
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Ahh yeah! Thanks guys.

When I first started successfully, it would run for a few seconds and die. It wouldn't stay running. Luckily I had Randy's "from NAERC" home phone. I then taped up the 2 vacuum outlets on top of the motor. I guess if it looses pressure it kills the motor for safety. Anyway after that it started correctly. The engine did its high rev and then settled down to a nice low rev. I'll soon be hooking up the vacuum lines to the brake booster and............ any one know?
Razz

So the next step is to get the water pluming finished up. Hopefully this 3day weekend!

After that I'll hook up and test the power steering pump. I have all the lines made for that, so it should be just a hookup thing and fluid.

How much fluid will it take?

Then start work on the shifting linkage. Very Happy

After all that I'll hookup the brake system.

and so on and so on................

Later

Greg
 
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RUNDLCOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 01:32 AM
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Good job Greg! I know how you felt. I am glad you have it running.


RUNDLC
 
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RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 01:52 AM
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Greg, I don't have all the answers but, a supercharger on an engine causes a pressure in the intake manifold, not a vacuum. You may not have the vacuum you need for a power brake booster.
I found that running a "hot" cam and 32 valves in my engine didn't give me the vacuum needed for my brake booster. Summit has electric vacuum pumps available for these conditions. I got one for my car. You may also require a vacuum tank too to make it all work.
Maybe someone else who has more experience in this area can provide guidance.

RT

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 04:37 AM
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Shocked That would suck, but I'm glad to know there is a solution. Thanks dude!!

Greg
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 12:05 PM
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You will be fine Greg, the vacuum port for the power brakes is on the suction side of the supercharger. With the vacuum line off your Mass Air Flow sensor will be very confused and the engine will barely run.
Vacuum lines to run;
Power Brakes - this should be a large line.
Plug and disconnect the line for the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. This is on the right side of the motor, black, about 3" long, one vacuum line, three wire connector. Your harness and chip does not need it.
If you are running a charcoal tank it needs a vacuum line.
There should a vacuum line going to the actuator lower left of the throttle body for the supercharger shut off lever.
There should be a vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail left front.
That is all.
The powersteering will be about three liters (quarts).

Everytime you disconnect the battery the computer needs to relearn the operating parameters for your motor. You will find that once you drive it for 5 key cycles it will start to run even better.

Jim

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RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jan 19, 2008 - 02:27 PM
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Way to go Jim Dinner!
See, I knew there would be somebody here with the answer.
I just wish I could have connected to a vacuum source but my situation isn't the same. Maybe I should get a supercharger. (just kidding)

RT

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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 19, 2008 - 06:55 PM
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Charging the radiator system? I know the 3800 uses the Dexcool. How much will I need for this huge sytem? Should I add water also?

Thanks

Greg

 
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