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RTOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 11, 2013 - 12:54 PM
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Joined: Feb 04, 2004
Posts: 1954
Location: Buckingham, PA, USA
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The entire build is fantastic!
I can't wait to see the finished build.
Nice work.

RT

_________________
It isn't enough to want a Lambo, you have to want to BUILD A CAR!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49982981@N00/
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=rontinari
 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Aug 11, 2013 - 05:57 PM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

Thank you guys for the kind words. It is slow progress but its progress. Finally got in touch with Peter Swann at Pilkington in the UK. My rear quarterglass has been put on order. Now I can get the rear quarters finished up.

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John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Sep 23, 2013 - 06:36 PM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

Lots of pics added in Build Diary. New pics loaded today start at 337. Just doing some finishing touches on the chassis. Tacked in the tubes at the rear vallance area to help support that area and tie it all together. Built the front corner trianglular outriggers (for a lack of better words) that will support the sides of the front spoiler and provide a place to attach the lower front fenders. They are made to bolt in so they can be removed because otherwise you wouldnt be able to remove or replace the lower spoiler. I reenforced the door hinge plate for the passenger side door. I added some cross tubes and more support down to the side skirt area of the chassis. I think you could hang a garage door on it now. Also made the template for the front indicator lights and will be making these out of metal soon. The template fits perfect. As I mentioned before I finally recieved my rear quarterglass in the mail from Pilkington so I started finishing up the rear quarter panel on the passenger side. Lastly I ditched the fiberglass dash pod I had built earlier and elected to make it out of aluminum. Believe it or not this is only two pieces of aluminum not counting the face plate. I still have to add the bottom of the Dash Pod and will do that in the next few days. I am very close to finishing the chassis. Since I have the dash pod in place I also was able to secure the rack and pinion steering. I had to modify my original mount because of the top strap slots for the B-nut on the right side didnt align with the slot and the angle of the shaft going into the passenger compartment. I have to reenforce the drivers side door hinge plate and add the floor structure. I cant do the floor yet untill I finish my seats. Thats it for now.

Password-aluminum

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Sep 23, 2013 - 11:53 PM
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Joined: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 3843
Location: Culver City,CA
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I see two in there! Nice work. Keep it up.

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G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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guywithlamboOffline
Post subject: deck/engine lid handle  PostPosted: Dec 29, 2013 - 01:06 AM
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Joined: Oct 02, 2006
Posts: 1545
Location: Thornhill,Ontario
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do you have one of those?
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Fiat-X1-9-X-1-9-Ferrari-208-308-Bertone-Haubenoffner-Haubenzug-geb-/161182863804?pt=DE_Autoteile&fits=Make%3AFiat%7CModel%3AX+1%2F9&hash=item25873f51bc

Achtung it is in Germany but they may send it to New World.
 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject: RE: deck/engine lid handle  PostPosted: Dec 29, 2013 - 05:13 AM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

As a matter of fact I do. Brand new shiny one at that. Thanks for thinking of me though. I have some updated photos but I just need to post them. I have the drivers side seat frame built and am almost done with the passenger side. They are made entirely out of steel like the originals. They will be power seats (unlike the real car) where they move forward/aft as well as rock back and forth similar to the original. I used the BMW donor seat rails which are quite different than OEM which worked out well other than I now had to modify the lower seat portion which may reduce comfort. The originals were not comfortable anyway but it will make the lower cushion thinner. There are foams that are more comfortable than in the past so it should help. The seats were definitely the most difficult part of the interior so far. Trying to make two identical seats was definitely a chore. I made a jig and heated the tubing with a torch then bent the outside frames along the fence giving it the curved shape. I was able to get four identical side pieces by working through this process. I also finished up the floor which will support the seats and footwell forward of the seats. I will try to get some pics up soon. One last thing I have done is copy the BMW brake pedal and make an identical clutch pedal. I will fabricate a pedal box and install it in the coming days. I am using the BMW OEM throttle potentiometer so it will be secured inside the center section and the gas pedal will be attached in some fashion. I have some ideas that I am working on to hook all of this up.

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject: RE: deck/engine lid handle  PostPosted: Feb 03, 2014 - 05:01 PM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

Added lots of new pics of some of the progress made recently. Click on the Build Diary link. Starts around PIC 460. Since I finished my dash pod I was able to secure the steering wheel column shown here. It shows the seat frames being made and the power mechanisms that will operate them forward and aft as well as the tilting mechanisms. Also in the new photos are the windshield wiper motor assembly and how it was modified to work coming from the BMW 850. I had to lower the mechanism beneath the tubing because it would of interfered with the chassis so I lengthened the rod that the wiper attaches to. I copied the brake pedal from the BMW 850 and fabricated a clutch pedal to match and installed them as well. Finally now that the steering column was in as well as the pedals I was able to modify the steering shaft using the lower corvette knuckle and linked it to the BMW steering shaft and upper knuckle. I am now installing the brake booster and throttle potentiometer which will be in the next update. My next big push is to concentrate on finishing up the rear suspension components and making all the final welds on the chassis. I might add that I miscalculated the rear wheel track and had to shorten my Corvette C4 drive shafts which had slowed me down on the rear suspension. This has been accomplished and they are now reinstalled back in the car. I have also tack welded some gussets on the rear wheel carriers for added strength so it is starting to take shape as well. More updates on this in the near future as well.

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject: RE: deck/engine lid handle  PostPosted: Feb 04, 2014 - 06:08 PM
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Joined: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 3843
Location: Culver City,CA
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Somebodies got a llllllloooooooooooooootttttttttttt of time to kill! Where did you buy those inserts?



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Later
G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 04, 2014 - 11:17 PM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

I purchased these from www.bungking.com however I have been making them myself now. Your are correct.....they are very time consuming.

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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dleachOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 05, 2014 - 04:30 PM
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
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Location: Fair Oaks, California
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John,
It is all quite amazing!

Don
Building a 6.0
 
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gwaderOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 05, 2014 - 04:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 16, 2004
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Location: Culver City,CA
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Hey John I pm-ed you

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Later
G

Custom NAERC 6.0
https://www.flickr.com/photos/28631797@N03/

 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 06, 2014 - 01:33 AM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

dleach wrote:
John,
It is all quite amazing!

Don
Building a 6.0


Thanks Don.

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 06, 2014 - 01:34 AM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

gwader wrote:
Hey John I pm-ed you


Ok

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum
 
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AdrianBurtonOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Feb 06, 2014 - 04:35 PM
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Joined: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 1754
Location: Mooresville, NC
Status: Offline
It is good to see your progress

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flyhilandsoft
Post subject:   PostPosted: Mar 23, 2014 - 04:40 AM
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Joined: May 12, 2007
Posts: 330

I apologize for the long winded update however I had a long layover sitting around the hotel.

New pics added of my progress, and some minor housekeeping of projects in the Build Diary. I am continuing to finish up small but important items in the build and many new pics have been added.

Starting at pic 669 I am using the original BMW 850 throttle potentiometer and its OEM bracket. The bracket was cut down and trimmed of the edges not needed. I used a couple throttle linkage rod ends to work in conjunction with the gas pedal along with two bolts machined down with a hole in the middle to support the main pivot rod. I ended up using an existing BMW hood hinge piece to act as a throttle arm to connect to the main pivot rod then to an adjustable rod then back to the potentiometer. A bracket was fabricated to attach the two end bolts to which allows the pivot rod to rotate freely as well as be removed for repairs later. You can also see the additional throttle pedal rod that was heated, and bent 90° in opposite directions that will attach to the main pivot rod, and then the other end to the BMW pedal. Before bending the secondary rod I first had to bore a hole into the end with my lathe that will slip over the main pivot rod in the bracket. It will be welded in place once the location is finally determined. The opposite end had to be turned down slightly in the lathe to fit the BMW upper pedal sleeve. It took me a while to figure out how to mount the potentiometer, and ended up finally mounting it upside down in order to get proper movement on the potentiometer lever. I elected to mount it up high in the center console due to the fact that I will probably be placing wires, lines, and tubes through the center console as well later on. The gas pedal was mounted to a flat bracket with three bolts which will eventually be mounted to the floor pan.

Starting at pic 706 the BMW Handbrake will be used. It actually works out very well and is close enough to the original Countach handbrake. I first removed the original bend in the bracket, and flattened it out only to re-bend it in the proper location that would more resemble the real car. After bending the main handbrake bracket it was secured by adding several brackets to hold the handbrake in place. One bolt on the bottom one bracket on the side, and one bracket at the rear was welded to the chassis. After the handbrake was secured I planned to use the original BMW emergency brake cables as well. In order to make the cables work I had to attach them through an adjustment mechanism similar to the original car however that adjustment was built into the body or chassis of the BMW, and I didn't have that. So I made my own on my lathe. These threaded adjustment pins will then be placed into a bracket, and welded to the center section of the chassis

Pick 741 I am fabricating the rear transmission mount. The first thing I did was use a holesaw to drill out two 2" plates for the rubber mounts to rest on. The rubber mounts were very inexpensive which I only paid $2.00 each at O'Reilly auto parts. They were actually expansion plugs however they are very solid, and I believe they're going to work just fine. The next thing I did was build the attachment point for the forward part of the mount. I took a piece of aluminum stock machined it down to fit over a forward transmission tab which will also attach to the main lower plate of the transmission mount. The main bracket housing has two tabs going forward to conceal the rubber mounts in front of the rear chassis tube. The rear mounts attach to the lowest two rear studs on the gearbox. I wanted to get a clean look and am happy enough with the results. I took 2" flat steel which was bent in my die bender to match the rubber mount diameter of the platforms. I also cut these brackets at an angle to give it a cleaner look.

Continuing on with some additional small housekeeping projects I decided to finish up the rear valance area. Pic 771 shows how I did this. The first thing I did was drill five holes in the lower portion of the valance. I spaced the holes equally then drilled the holes out to 1/2 " diameter. The reason I drilled them out to 1/2" diameter is because I added a spacer for strength to accept a 6MM bolt which was welded in. The next thing I did was I needed to add a thin flange strip at the top to be able to secure the the rear aluminum center valance. I wanted to do this so that the bolts would be hidden when the rear trunk was closed. After I built the framing for the rear valance it caused a small problem with the rear emblems. One of the emblems bolts interfered with the tube at the lower right portion of the valance. I corrected this by cutting a small V notch where one of the emblem attachment points went through. In order to give it a clean look, and bring back the strength I then added a piece of angle iron to finish it off. The outside mounting tab on the emblem interfered with with the lower tube as well however this time it was right in the middle of the square tube. What I did was drill a small hole for the bolt to go through, and a larger hole on the backside giving me access to put the nut on. In order to get the emblems in the proper location I first traced them out on card stock paper to make a template, and was then able to place them in the proper location. The reason I did this was because of the mounting screws on the back of the emblems would not allow me to lay them flush against the aluminum. Now you can see what it looks like with all of the emblems in place.

Finally at pic 814 and beyond I have begun to finally make preparations to secure all of the body panels and here I have begun on the rear quarter panels. The first thing I did was to use 3/4" round bar and drilled them out in the lathe to except an 8 mm- 1.25 Stainless steel pan head bolt. Before drilling the holes in the chassis tubes the first thing I did was drill a 1/16th" hole in the rain gutters of the quarter panels right down the middle. The next thing I did was find the center of the rear chassis tubes. How I did this was by using my dowel jig (which is actually use for woodworking) and placed it over the top of the tube....leveled it up marking the center. I then connected the dots all the way down. Using these steps I again placed the quarter panel back on the chassis, and peered down through the 16th inch hole, lining it up with the center line on the chassis tube. A center punch was used to mark the line where the hole should be drilled. This would guarantee the holes will line up in the end . I drilled a total of nine holes along the rear chassis tubes to weld in threaded inserts to secure the rear quarter panel in place.

_________________
John
Goodyear, Az
"Its a dry heat"

http://www.siennacountach.net/gallery2/album129?page=1

http://countachbuild.shutterfly.com/pictures#:albumId=2303
Password-aluminum


Last edited by flyhilandsoft on Mar 23, 2014 - 10:07 PM; edited 2 times in total
 
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