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dBOffline
Post subject: DIGITAL TIMING LIGHT  PostPosted: Apr 10, 2011 - 11:08 PM
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Location: Milton, WI.
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Hi:

I got a digital timing light for Christmas and was playing with it today to look at RPM and timing.

I used and external 12V DC power source and hooked the probe up to #1 wire going to #1 cylinder. The RPM would not register unti I moved the probe to #4 wire going to cylinder #4.

PROBLEM #1 As I have always suspected, my Tach RPM is 2x Eng RPM. The Tach setting on the gauge is for an 8 cylinder. Any ideas?

PROBLEM #2 The Distributor was an standard unit and just the top was converted to HEI. The distributor was never pulled. Why is #4 wire showing the signal instead of #1? The #1 wire is right along the left side of the molded rectangular box coming off the distributor cap. Does this have to be reindexed when going to HEI?


I went on a 20 mile trip today and it finally overheated at 120C and was not getting above 60 mph.

I am thinking the distributor teeth is off and the timing is low with 6.5 psi fuel pressure it may not be enought to feed it at high demand.

dB.........................
 
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EAMartinOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 11, 2011 - 03:30 PM
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Your timing light should register RPMs when hooked to any of the spark plug wires. If it is showing 2x the actual RPMs on a V8 then it is set for a 4 cylinder engine. To check the timing it does need to be hooked to the number 1 plug wire. It shouldn't matter which distrubutor cap terminal the number 1 plug wire is in as long as the rest are in the correct order. If your distributor was one tooth off when you installed it the engine probably wouldn't run well at all. If you are overheating your timing might be retarded too much. If it pings it is too far advanced.
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 11, 2011 - 06:26 PM
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Hi:

The light is correct on RPM (or more believeable) but not the CAR TACH which is set to V8 mode.

I cannot believe I drive the car at 6K rpm most of the time based on the car tach.

I was not getting any signal off the #1 plug wire for timing or rpm.
The mid range to high rpm power is just not there.

I am wondering if the 6.5 psi pressure regulator is too low and the car is starving for fuel. Would a LEAN condition make it run hot?


db...................
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 11, 2011 - 09:01 PM
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A lean condition is the main reason for a hot engine.
If #1 is not registering I would suspect a bad ignition wire. Every wire will produce a signal for an inductive pickup.
What do you mean by external power source? It is designed to see a clean 12 volt DC current directly from the battery. A DC 12V adapter will not cut it.

If you are running a HEI dist cap, are you connecting your tach to the tach terminal on the cap? That should provide a 8 cylinder pulse for the head unit.

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 12, 2011 - 12:54 AM
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Hi Jim,

The external power supply is my C-TEK battery charger that has a very good 12V DC @ 7amps output. The digital gun uses a +, -, and sparkplug lead wire only. There are buttons on the gun for 2/4 cycle, rpm, timing, and strobe light.

I will probably reset the car tach so it is more believable. Just cannot figure out why the 8 cyl settting is providing a 2x reading.

The rpm did not work on the #1 lead non matter where on the wire I located it. When I moved it to #4 wire, the rpm showed up. I did not try the other leads, and I do understand each wire should show a firing signal. Otherwise that would be one smart gun to know #1 wire only Wink .

I can look at the other wires for fire this week and see what we get.
I believe the fuel psi regulator is set to 6.5 psi as factory recommendation an Edelbrock 1406 carb.

It has been awhile, so I will have confirm that.
Then I can fatten up the mid range.

dB.................


Last edited by dB on Apr 27, 2011 - 01:22 AM; edited 1 time in total
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 12, 2011 - 03:12 AM
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I have a funny feeling your timing light problem is with your battery charger. I believe the chargers send out rapid pulses of power to make it 12 volts. It makes electronics go wonky. Test it off of the battery or even the back of the alternator.

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wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 17, 2011 - 02:30 AM
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Correct, Jim. A battery charger rectifies the AC from a transformer and gives 120 positive ½ sinewave pulses a second at ~18 volts peak.

Use the car battery OR a proper regulated DC power supply.
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 17, 2011 - 04:17 PM
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Hopefully I can get back to it today.
It snowed yesterday after 3 days of 60_70 degree weather. Crying or Very sad

I will try multiple dc inputs and let you know.
_ car battery
_ external car battery
_ C Tek charger


dB............
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 18, 2011 - 12:31 AM
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Hi:

Ok, here's the latest developments:
- TDC found and have rotated the flywheel to place marks for timing light.
- I removed all plugs (ACCEL 576S) and they were all black and sooty.
- The gaps are at 0.035"

I am looking at getting new plugs, suggestions on short type and gap for HEI?


dB...............................
 
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wire2Offline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 19, 2011 - 06:38 PM
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I use an HEI distributer on my boat, (350) and I gap the plugs to .080, saw it in some spec somewhere... Anyway, it works well.
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Apr 27, 2011 - 01:20 AM
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UPDATE:

Ok, I have some answers but not all.
1.) Reverse timing off the flywheel after finding TDC with a dial indicator and marking the flywheel works great.
2.) Base timing is 14 degrees (no vacuum)
3.) Vacuum timing below 3,000 rpm is 26 degrees
4.) Idle speed is at 800 rpm based on timing light (car tach is 2x off)
5.) Fuel pressure on Edelbrock 1406 Carb is 5.5 psi
6.) New plugs installed and gapped at 0.040" HEI ignition
7.) The #3 plug boot was burn off, even with a fiberglass sock.

The first run still had some choke in it but what a rocket!
The water temp was 50C max after 10-15 minutes.

Now after about 30 minutes of running the WOT run was back to no power but rpms went up.
The water temp started going up to 100C.

I think the choke is disguising a LEAN condition.
Once it is off, then the carb reservoir is running out or the system leans out somehow.

I will still look at the DC power supply question on #1 plug.
Not sure how to make it not LEAN unless it is a Rod or Jet change.
Will look at +3,000 rpms for centrifugal advance amount.

Cannot work on it until this weekend.
Which header tubes run the hottest......... according to 3 of my fingers, they all are. I have 2nd and 3rd dgeree burns after slipping and touching the headers after a run &^%$%#^.

Next suggestions after healing up?

dB...................
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: May 01, 2011 - 11:23 PM
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Hi Guys

Well, we had a pretty successful weekend.

I went in and disassembled the Edelbrock 1406 and rebuilt it and verified float settings.
- The inlets to the floats had "stuff" plugging them up.
- Low float level was way too low
- Hi float level was too high
- Bottom of reservoirs were a ficking sludge pile
- Set fuel pressure to 5.0 psi

After rebuilding and resetting and reveryfying every darned carb value I could find it fired right up and ran pretty smooth.

I had to reset fast idle screw to lower the rpm which is now 750 RPM.
The tach is still goofy but I can live with that until next weekend.


The first run had power as long as I could stand on it and roadway to eat.
I was able to drive it for 90 minutes and it stayed at 200F the whole time. I actually saw it drop to 190F and cycle back up.

It still seems a wee bit thin if I stand on it after 90 minutes The rpms go up quickly but no power to go with it.

So, after 3 flippin years of radiator work and a $400.00 super water pump, a $47.00 carb rebuild kit solved the heat issue so far.


Thank you for the tip on the LEAN engine going hot Jim. That got me thinking in a whole new direction.

dB.......................
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: May 02, 2011 - 12:29 AM
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LOL dB. It is part of my cooling lessons in high school.

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: May 02, 2011 - 01:24 AM
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Hi Jim,

lol^2.

You can use this as a case study!

dB...........
 
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