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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 23, 2011 - 11:28 AM
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Being a hydraulic clutch it is hard to determine if there is free play.

It could be the master cylinder not fully retracting to its normal state. This will prevent fluid from entering the reservoir if it expands from heat in the line. This condition will act like you have your foot pressing the pedal part way. To test this remove the master cylinder pushrod from the pedal pin. Reconnect the pushrod, it should just slip on without forcing anything. If it does not, space the master cylinder away from the pedal or shorten the pushrod.

Another issue could be at the slave;
If you think the push rod is too long or forcing the clutch to slip the only thing you can do is remove the slave cylinder and measure how deep the clutch fork is. You should allow about 1/2" of movement towards the rear to account for wear in the future.
So, use a 1/4" rod to measure the depth, place it beside the slave cylinder fully retracted. The slave should be about 1/2" shorter.
I had to make a new slave pushrod on the red roadster. It was a KEP kit 3.8SC to 016.
I'm not sure if there is method to this in a manual, this is just what I know will work.

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 26, 2011 - 10:08 PM
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Hi Guys,

ROADTRIP DATA

I run the car for 45minutes up and down the highway today.
Gauge max was 105C which is 80C according to TC input.
It appears all Rad corrections are in place and working.

I thought I had a pressure leak on the J-Dadapter behind me but found out it was the static ln the stereo speaker that got turned on ....... WTF.


I redid the dip switches on the Tach for the V-8 and now it hovers around the 1200rpm mark and rarely moves. At least before it was moving but 2x the value.

I still got what feels like slip when the engines revs but does not pick up appropriate speed. Once when I got on it it reved up and then backfired when I let off.


dB.............
 
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TonyBowmanOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 27, 2011 - 03:00 AM
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So it seems you have (had) a cooling issue, clutch issue, and maybe a timing issue? If you dont mind- tell me what drivetrain setup you have. I know between everyone here, you problems can be cured if we take on one problem at a time.
Lets start with these:
What engine?-
What ignition? (hei, distributor, ect and what is your timing set at)
What fuel pump and intake?
What transmission, clutch, pressure plate, ect?

Will the engine backfire if you rev it up and back off while its in neutral?
Is it feel like its slipping right when you start it up and drive it or does the slipping feeling come on later in the drive?
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 27, 2011 - 03:46 AM
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Hi,

The engine is a totally rebuilt 1978 SBC 5.7 liter V-8.
It has an Edlebrock Performer Manifold 21011 (I think that is the p,n).
The carb is a new Edlebrock 1406 4BBL that has had all the settings in the manual verified
The ignition uses the distributor converted to HEI.
The timing was set to values I found on the net. If memory serves me it is 14 degrees without vacuum and 26 degrees with vacuum and 34 degress with cetrifugal in.
Fuel pump is a Summit Racing mechanical pump with a psi regualtor set at 5 psi per Edlebrock manual and tech video

Transmission is an Audi 016 AAZ 5 speed. It is mated to the SBC via the Kennedy Adapter.
The slip only happens when driving. You can feather it very well.

Backfire while driving today. I have reved it up in the garage and let the throttle snap shut and getting a backfire.

Hope this outlines it well enough.

dB.........
 
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TonyBowmanOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 27, 2011 - 07:07 AM
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Lets start at the clutch first- since I think it could be your biggest problem.

1. Did you buy a new clutch and pressure plate with this setup? If so- did you spray "brake parts cleaner" or something like it on the pressure plate to remove the coating they put on there to keep it from rusting? I have seen this happen the clutch will kinda just melt the coating and turn it into a slick substance that will cause the clutch to slip.

2. Do you have a spacer between the back of the crankshaft and the pressure plate to compensate for the distance of the engine to trans adapter? If so- what size is the spacer? I have also seen some of these kits not suppling the correct size spacer so the clutch just quite dont get full contact with the pressure plate.
On a side note- how does the shifting feel- is it smoothy going into gear good when you change gears or is some grinding going on or just hart to get it in to gear?

Backfiring is either out of time, a vacumme leak or a valve not set right. Do you have any kind of MSD box or spark control box on the engine? How does the motor rev? Real quick/snappy or rev up a little heavy? On your converted HEI distributor do you have advance springs or is the rotor locked down?

One last question- What cam are you running? I have heard of stories where people got a different camshft than what they ordered or didnt order the right one and end up with one of those cams where #5 cylinder and #7 are swaped. Just kinda trying to cover some mistakes that could have happened....
 
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deweyOffline
Post subject: LOSS OF POWER AND ENGINE WENT HOT  PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 01:38 AM
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Tony , if the engine is a chevrolet it is a 4-7 swap not 5-7. Just trying to help , no scarcasim here.

dewey

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deweyOffline
Post subject: LOSS OF POWER AND ENGINE WENT HOT  PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 01:41 AM
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also check the throw out bearing an make sure it is not preloading the clutch , if so you will experince slippage.

Dewey

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 01:46 AM
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Hi,

The clutch and Kennedy Adapter were all new parts.
I do not recall a spacer but that was 5 yrs ago.
I do recall slightly scuffing the clutch surface and cleaning it.

What about external contaminates getting into the openings of the Audi trans?
Any possibility of a spray cleaner in there and letting it dry for a day?

Shifting is smooth and you can easily feather it out of the garage.

As for the cam, I was told it was slightly over stock.
So, I cannot say about 5 & 7 being swapped.

dB...............
 
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TonyBowmanOffline
Post subject: Re: LOSS OF POWER AND ENGINE WENT HOT  PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 02:11 AM
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dewey wrote:
Tony , if the engine is a chevrolet it is a 4-7 swap not 5-7. Just trying to help , no scarcasim here.

dewey




Opps ! Keyboard error.... Just wasnt watching what I was typing....
 
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TonyBowmanOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 02:17 AM
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Maybe someone can confirm but I pretty sure there should be a little spacer between the flywheel and crankshaft. If you can you might want to crawl under the car with a flashlight and see if theres one.

I come from a racing background and we used midplates between the engine and transmission and you always had to put in a spacer to offset the flexplate/flywheel....

Also- after driving it for a while does it have a funny burning smell like if the clutch is slipping?
 
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jdinnerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jun 28, 2011 - 11:00 AM
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The flywheel was custom made by KEP so the spacing was built into it.

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deweyOffline
Post subject: LOSS OF POWER AND ENGINE WENT HOT  PostPosted: Jul 02, 2011 - 03:48 PM
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DB:
If you put a spacer between the crank and the flywheel your clutch is going to slip , result is the pressure plate moves closer to the throw out bearing and could preload the clutch and cause slippage.
Is the original problem of running hot been solved?


Dewey

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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 03, 2011 - 02:06 AM
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Hi:

there is NO spacer on this application.
I have looked at my Kennedy Pics and install stuff.... NADA.

dB......................
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 07, 2011 - 10:08 PM
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Hi:

Here is the THERMAL DATA for the extended roadtrip.

I relocated the Water Temperature sensor to the middle of the Edlebrock Manifold where no adapter bushing was required. This area was previously covered up and forgetten.

Ambient Temperature = 31C / 88F
Run Time was 30 minutes, Gauge Temp = 60C / 140F
Run Time was 60 minutes, Gauge Temp = 70C / 158F
Run Time was 90 minutes, Gauge Temp = 75C / 168F

Stopped the car and talked to people for 15 minutes.
Total Time was 105 minutes, Gauge Temp = 100C / 212F
Started car abd drove off, run time was 130 minutes, Gauge Temp = 80C / 176F.
This is one of the first times I have ever seen it go hot and then cool down while under way.

After I got home and opened the engine bay cover to let it cool down, I added about another 3/8 Gallon of coolant at the fill point. I will probably keep doing it for a couple more trips.

The loss of power or clutch slip is still present and will try to look at the adjustment suggestions here. It is more promenient when the system is up to temp.

I did go back into the instrument cluster and reset the TACH DIP switches per the instruction manual. They were mirrored due to the instructions numbers not matching the orientation of my gauge. The Gauge responds to the engine rpm but now appears to be about 2x as it should in reference with the Digital Timing Gun.

dB................................................
 
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dBOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: Jul 20, 2011 - 02:42 AM
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Hi Guys:

OK, it is 94F ambient and humidity you could swim thru.

20 Min run time was 105C, we might have a chance
30 Min run time pegged the needle at 120C!
Is it 3rd RAD install in the trunk time?


I did replace the temp sensor with a no bushing required 1/2" NPTF one and
there was not much difference overall.

I have the minor oil leaks at the valve cover finally sealed up.


Power Loss
- The Master Cylinder linkage lengthed and was engaging the through out bearing prematurely.
- Put some slack in it and what a difference!
- Still need to tweak it but it appeears no clutch replacement required yet.

Carb needs adjustment for smooth power and no back fire when I let off of it.


dB........................
 
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